02 October 2025

An excursion to an anchovy factory and Santoña

Interesting as Santander may be, I also wanted to see smaller coastal towns, like the day trip to Castro Urdiales. For this day I had signed up for a tour of an anchovy factory and the town of Santoña about 45 km to the east.

The tour van picked me up near my lodgings and our first stop was the factory. We entered through the shop where these products were on display. Some items like baby eels (angula) are very expensive.

They took us upstairs to a viewing room to the packing floor where they played a video explaining the history of the town, its fishing and factory activities. In the beginning many workers were imported Italians with sardine and anchovy experience.

While we were there, a photographer was taking photos of activities, to post on the website I suppose. I wish I had taken photos too. But the location of the factory, in an industrial area outside the town, was scenic.

I asked the tour guide if the workers on the floor, many of them young women, might get tempted to leave for the excitement of a larger place. The guide said that this was steady employment. I guess as long as the fish stocks last and there is demand from people who love the taste of anchovies and sardines, like me, the industry will continue.

A few minutes we were in the town of Santoña. The sculpture references the town's industry.

This is a memorial to Juan de la Cosa, a cartographer who was on Columbus' expeditions, and said to have been born in Santoña.

We joined a much larger group of vistors from a tour bus for a harbour cruise. I think they were mostly Finns.

The boat headed east towards the open sea, hugging the southern coast of Santoña Bay.

Further along are these abandoned fortifications Fuerte de San Carlos.

Now in the open sea are these formidable cliffs.

Our attention was drawn to the grotto under this cliff. 

This is the Faro del Caballo, not in use. It can be reached by hiking across the top of the headland.

In fact we spotted some hikers and waved to them.

Now we are headed back to the port. The beach belongs to Laredo on the other side of the bay. The town has fishing activities too but is also a tourist resort. The bus I took some 30 years ago between Santander and San Sebastian passed Laredo heading east and I noted the long beach.

As we approached the port we were served some of the local wine. It was a jolly lot that disembarked the boat.

This is Santa María del Puerto, a 13th century church. Our guide gave our group the choice of taking a walk around the town or visiting this landmark.

It, and Santoña, are on the Camino del Norte (Northern Way). It is a less known route compared to the main Camino Frances, which goes through Burgos, cooler in summer, but harder to walk despite the coastal route due to the elevation changes, and longer distances between stops.

We were dropped off back in Santander later afternoon. I have no more pictures for the rest of the day. I don't remember what I did. I probably rested and had a unremarkable dinner.

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